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Daily Mail
- 5/22/04 - By Ann Leslie
Few Western
reporters are allowed to visit Iran. In this powerful dispatch Ann Leslie
paints a horrifying picture of a violent and corrupt dictatorship run
by Muslim fundamentalists.
We in the
West are rightly outraged about the abuse of Iraqi prisoners in the Abu
Graib jail. We publicize it. We print the evidence, as the Daily Mail
does today. We interview the victims. But how many newspapers in the Muslim
world, living as they do under a variety of dictatorships, would dare
to publicize the appalling torture that routinely occurs in their own
jails? None. How many would dare to publicize the unjust barbaric executions
of political prisoners, writers and democracy activists? None.
Otherwise
they will suffer the same fate as so many I have spoken to on a visit
to the allegedly democratic Islamic Republic of Iran.
Take the
young man I met who's been imprisoned and tortured merely for speaking
out against the mullahs' Islamist regime. He will doubtless suffer more
of the same for speaking to me, a Western 'infidel'. Yet he agreed to
meet me secretly in a small wood in the center of a city park.
He seemed
- like every other tortured dissident I met in this bizarre country -
extraordinarily fearless about our forthcoming meeting; I, on the other
hand, was not. However, I'd so far managed to give my official 'minder'
the slip, pleading that I was unwell and wouldn't be leaving my hotel
that day.
In fact,
I'd already changed hotels since arriving in the cacophonous, heavily-polluted
Iranian capital Tehran. I'd been booked into a regime-controlled hotel
called the Laleh, which means 'tulip' in Persian. The red tulip is the
official symbol of martyrdom here, and this hotel was, I learned, bugged
throughout.
All the
Iranians I've met have been extraordinarily welcoming, affable, keen to
practice their English and to tell me about their favorite bootleg Hollywood
movies and officially banned Western pop music- 'Oh, I LOVE Jennifer Lopez!'
Satellite dishes are illegal - but most people I met seemed to have access
to one.
Even in
the holy desert city of Qom, which contains around 40,000 mullahs and
seminarians, I was told that, if I want some alcohol (the penalty for
possession is being lashed), 'you just have to go to that intersection'.
Several
people I met told me raucous (and sometimes filthy) anti-mullah jokes.
And all told me, in varying forms, that 'we Iranian Muslims are forced
to live under a PERVERSION of Islam!'
Despite
this wave of welcoming affability, I had to remind myself that this is
a grotesque - and stupidly cruel - police state, which is allegedly run
in the name of Allah by a gang of corrupt and murderous mullahs.
This is
a state where, at the Friday prayers broadcast live on state-controlled
television (which I attended in a curtained-off and segregated women-only
section), the preacher, a leading Ayatollah, with a semi-automatic rifle
by his side, denounced the West for its moral corruption. And where pre-positioned
cheer-leaders urged the worshippers to chant 'Death to Israel!', 'Death
to America!'.
The Ayatollah
concerned, incidentally, is one of the most corrupt figures in the 'mullahcratic
mafia'; it was he who airily justified the mass murder of jailed regime
opponents in 1988 (some of whose secret graves I've visited) by joking:
'Well, we don't have enough chickens to feed them all!'.
This is
a state, which finances - and has itself indulged in - terrorism overseas.
This is a state, which is suspected of attempting to acquire nuclear weapons,
and which has at times given shelter to al-Qaeda militants, including
to the man who had himself video-ed cutting off the head of the young
American Nick Berg.
A state
whose official policy is the total destruction of Israel, and who persecutes
any one who speaks out in favor of rapprochement with the 'Great Satan'
America.
A state
which has handed down eight and nine year prison sentences to two pollsters
merely for conducting polls which proved that, among other unpalatable
things, around three quarters of Iranians actually want a rapprochement
with America, whose 'satanic' culture they not-so-secretly enjoy.
A state
which has sentenced an academic to death for 'apostasy' merely for writing
an article questioning whether Iranians should blindly follow, 'like donkeys',
the diktats of the ruling clerics.
A state
which pretends it is an 'Islamic democracy' but whose un-elected Supreme
Leader, Ayatollah Ali Khamenei and the equally un-elected 12-member Guardian
Council, can not only overrule laws passed by the Parliament but, preceding
the parliamentary elections held in February, was able arbitrarily to
disqualify over 2,000 prospective reformist candidates on the grounds
that they were all insufficiently 'Islamic'.
But this
is also a state of 68 million people, 70% of whom are under 30, which
sits on some of the largest oil reserves in the world and which is, as
one diplomat put it to me, 'the proverbial elephant in the living room.
We all know it's there, but we try not to think about it'.
So why do
we know so little about this vast and now, I believe, dangerously volatile
country? For the simple reason that the mullahs don't want us to. A Canadian
woman journalist who was doing what I'm doing in this park - trying to
discover the grisly truth about this regime - was arrested and tortured
to death last year in Tehran's notorious Evin prison.
As I climbed
up a small hill to meet the young dissident I almost fainted from the
heat induced by my mandated Islamic Dress Code of black hejab headscarf,
black socks and a long shapeless black coat. Oddly enough, I had some
difficulty in buying this suffocating, impractical outfit.
Every shop
I went into featured 'manteaus,' the black, baggy, figure-concealing ankle-length
coats which are supposed to prevent a woman - even one of my age - from
inciting the supposedly uncontrollable lust of good Muslim men. Except
that the manteaus on sale were not baggy, and not black: indeed, some
were remarkably short, colorful and glamorous.
A man in
a shop who spoke English explained to the woman shop assistant that 'this
lady wants to buy proper Islamic clothes'. The assistant, whose hejab
was perched on the back of her head, showing off her well-coiffed hair
(an 'un-Islamic' act, according to the regime) retorted: 'Oh, b***** Islam!'
I expected the others in the shop to denounce her and summon one of the
religious 'enforcer' groups. Instead of which they all - male and female
- burst out laughing. The English-speaker explained: 'everyone here takes
the p*** out of the mullahs: we despise them all'.
Even when
I smuggled myself into a hospital to visit one of Iran's most famous dissidents,
the 74 year old journalist Siamak Pourzand - who'd been brought to the
ward in iron shackles from Evin prison where he's serving an 11 year sentence
- I did not get the feeling that the staff wished to betray me to the
authorities.
They clearly
respected the proud but broken Pourzand who has been tortured and who
is possibly dying. But even in his dire condition, Pourzand insisted on
denouncing the regime to me.
This fundamentalist
Islamic government is, despite its ferocity, beginning to lose control
over its own people, not least because the cleric-run economy is in ruins.
One day a bankrupt businessman, working as an unofficial taxi-driver,
gave me a lift. On hearing that 'I'm an English convert to Islam' who's
going out to the desert city of Qom next day, he exclaimed: 'Please, dear
sister, if you go to the Holy Shrine tomorrow, pray to the saints that
they rid us of the mullahs soon - as quickly as possible! They just use
Islam to oppress us, to keep power and get rich - while we all suffer!'
On finally
meeting up with the young man in the wood I assured him that I will disguise
his identity. After all, he was first arrested four years ago as a teenage
schoolboy for his anti-regime activities and has been repeatedly tortured.
'When it
first happened to me I was only seventeen and I was so shocked, I really
wanted to die. But now I'm inoculated, so I don't care any more'. So inoculated
(a word I was to hear constantly) has twenty-one year old Kianoush Sanjari
become that, with the reckless courage of so many young Iranians I met,
he simply refuses to keep his mouth shut. For the 'crime' of criticizing
the mullahs on an international radio station, he was once again arrested
and sentenced to five years in prison, reduced on appeal to one year.
And yet,
by talking to me - and by insisting I use his name (as all those I interviewed
did) - he was risking prison yet again. 'Yes, but international pressure
on behalf of political prisoners and dissidents is the only thing that
keeps us alive. The mullahs can't kill or torture us all - there are too
many of us now. The regime doesn't speak for the Iranian people - we do!
Our age group is in the majority!'
Was George
Bush right to denounce Iran as part of 'the axis of evil'? 'Yes. In fact
we're very much hoping for President Bush's re-election. Not because we
want America to invade Iran - we certainly don't - but because we need
support against this regime'.
Again, secretly,
late at night, having slipped my hapless minder's clutches, I talked to
another young dissident, Ali Afshari, a leader of the student movement.
He too has been jailed, tortured and forced to make a televised 'confession'.
'The beatings and solitary confinement were not the worst thing - it was
my guilty conscience for making that false confession. They completely
broke down my personality and then repeatedly rehearsed me in what I had
to say. It was the bitterest moment of my life. When I was released I
held a press conference denouncing that forced confession, because I would
never be able to look in the mirror again if I still had that burden on
my soul'.
It is obvious
to any outsider that it's only a matter of time before this Islamic regime
implodes. Violently? Afshari shrugged: 'I'm afraid it will probably end
in violence. The reform movement has reached a dead end and now there
is so much frustration that it only needs the slightest spark for the
whole thing to explode'.
Another
secret, late-night meeting, this time with lawyer Dr. Qassem Sholeh Sa'adi,
who has not only been arrested for writing an open letter attacking the
Supreme Leader, but has also (he tells me) survived several assassination
attempts.
'The apple
is ripe and ready to fall - and, if the Americans and the British don't
help us to shake the tree, I can assure you that they won't get any slice
of the economic action after the regime falls!'. We have been duly warned.
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